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building the foundation

Soil Health in the Garden and Farm

The first, most important thing gardeners and farmers must grow is their soil.  Healthy soil results in healthier plants, less work and more success.  It holds together against erosion and soaks water up, holding moisture longer.  And healthy soil is teeming with microbial life and actively circulating nutrients and minerals.


Soil can be assessed by the beginner, using some simple tools & procedures.  On some, instinctive level, we know healthy soil when we see it.  Healthier soils are darker than barren soils and have a pleasant, earthy smell.  


Knowing what you're aiming for will reduce lost time and wasted effort.  Understanding your current soil conditions and what's not working will point to the soil health strategies that are most needed.  Below are some easy methods to learn more about your soil and afterwards the common soil health principles.

soil health assessment

Soil Texture


An important thing to know is the texture, which means the size of the individual soil particles. Sand, or larger particles, stacks together loosely and leaves lots of pore space.  Clay, or small particles, tend to be flat and tightly pack together.  Loam is the nice middle size in between.


All soils are a mix of particle sizes in different proportion. Every combination has its advantages and disadvantages.  The general mix of particle sizes can be determined by either the "worm test" or the "jar test".


Worm Test

The soil texture can be felt by wetting and squeezing the soil into tubes, or worms.  Sandy soil makes the least stable worms, falling apart.  When soil worm can bend without breaking, there is likely more clay in the soil.  A loam soil will hold together but not bend without breaking.  You can mash the worm between two fingers to feel the moistened soil.  Sand will feel gritty while clay will feel slick.


I have sandy loam soil.  I can make a worm that holds together but doesn't bend.  When I mash it, it feels gritty.  For more detailed information on this method, you can find the test at this USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service's web page: https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/sites/default/files/2022-11/Texture%20and%20Structure%20-%20Soil%20Health%20Guide_0.pdf


Jar Test

To do the jar test, a sample of soil is placed in a jar and filled with water.  Shake the jar and then watch the soil particles separate into the first, heaviest layer which is the sand.  Then the loam will settle and finally the clay.  I find this method messy and less conclusive, but it is fun to try out, especially with kids.  Clemson Cooperative Extension's Hame and Garden Information Center has this instruction page:  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/soil-texture-analysis-the-jar-test/


soil health assessment

Compaction


Compaction means that the soil particles are smashed tightly together, creating a barrier rather than a fertile bed.  Roots and water cannot penetrate the soil when it's compacted.  Compaction happens when heavy vehicles, weight or foot traffic pass over, especially when the soil is wet.  There are two ways to assess how compacted the soil is.  


The first is to push something in to see how much resistance is met  When the soil is moist but not soggy.  Using a wire flag, section of rebar or even just a shovel, push down into the soil.   Try to push in 8+ inches and see how much resistance you get.  


Another way is the infiltration test.  Dig a hole about 1' deep and 1' wide.  Fill it with water and start a timer.  How long does it take the water to drain?  Ideally it won't drain instantly, meaning the soil isn't holding onto water.  But it also shouldn't take a long time, over 5 minutes.  Much longer than than and you'll know the soil is hard and water can't penetrate well.




the New Food Garden

There are 5 Soil Health Principals that will help growers improve their existing soil:

  1. Maximize Presence of Living Roots
  2. Minimize Disturbance
  3. Maximize Soil Cover
  4. Maximize Biodiversity
  5. Incorporate Animal Impact 

Maximize Presence of Living Roots

Living roots leak a steady stream of sugars and nutrients to the soil community.  This improves fertility, creates good structure and protects soil.  Using living cover crops in the winter is an example of living roots.  Use of grasses and clovers for paths keeps the unwanted weeds and mud in check.  Biointensive growing allows beds to be quickly replanted with new crops to minimize bare ground conditions.

Minimize Disturbance

Disturbed soils tend to lose organic matter, structure and beneficial soil microbes.  Tillage, pesticide application and even fertilizing are examples of disturbances that make soil less resilient and more vulnerable.  No-till, organic farming methods are a good example of minimizing disturbance.  Avoid stepping on prepared beds to keep from compacting the soil.


Fungi and mycorhyzae are the heavy lifters in soil health.  Their strands grow slowly, winding through the soil, offering nutrients to plants and weaving together soil aggregates.  Disturbances like tillage and compaction really do a number on fungi, damaging tender strands and cutting off the important services they provide the soil.

Maximize Soil Cover

Bare soil is open to erosion, higher temperatures and loss of nutrients.  Covering soil with mulches or living plants will reduce evaporation and hold soil in place.  Leaving the plant stubble in beds after harvest can reduce work and leave cover in place.


The UV radiation, the wind and the dryness in my area are brutal on uncovered soil.  When I first assessed my soil coverage, it was barely 25% and I thought I'd been doing a good job.  Today, between wood chip mulch, stepping stones and garden residues, I have around 80% coverage.  This has slowed the wind erosion that was stealing my garden.

Maximize Biodiversity

Nature does not monocrop the way large, conventional farms do.  To improve soil health, add different crops and rotate them, with pollinator beds all around.  Biointensive growers generally have many small beds of different crops, and even 2-3 crops in the same bed.  This mash-up confuses pests and feeds a variety of beneficial insects and soil organisms.  They protect plants and soil exponentially through this diversity.

Incorporate Animal Impact

Animals play a critical role in all ecosystems and the garden is no different.  Growers have many options for including animals.  Manure can be added to the compost, pollinators lured in with flowers and chickens can be tractored around after harvest to clean up.  By protecting insect habitat around the garden, natural pest predators can find welcome space and keep the garden protected.


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